Toyama Iki Iki Triathlon 2017

This was my third year in a row doing the Toyama Iki Iki race, and each time the course has been a little different. This year, the bike course reverted to the 2015 course, but the run was rather different from the previous two years. What hadn’t changed was the beautiful scenery and the toughness of the race.

David, Thibaut, and I had been exchanging emails for a week about the weather forecast as it evolved from promises of mid-thirties heat, to torrential rain, and everything in between. By Saturday, the swim was in doubt due to rough seas, the bike course had been changed a little due to rock falls, and we were promised rain for at least part of the race. Sunday brought a mild day with light breezes, and the sun hidden safely behind clouds. We couldn’t have hoped for better weather, which just goes to show there is not much point worrying too much about things you have no control over.

For Thibaut, the race very nearly didn’t happen at all, as his name did not appear on the start list. After much persuasion, the JTU marvellously decided to create an “Open” category with just one athlete. It will probably be the only triathlon in which Thibaut simultaneously comes first and last.

As with previous years, the logistics seemed rather complicated, as you have to register at the Keirin cycle race track before checking in your bike a kilometre away by the sea, and then return on foot to the Keirin track for the race briefing. After the briefing of 2015, at which we sat on blue tarps in the freshly hosed-down fish market, and the 2016 version in the baking-hot stands of the Keirin track, 2017 found us sitting on the floor of an airless, non-air-conditioned gym, roasting restlessly as the JTU officials used hand-drawn diagrams to explain the intricacies of the race. After this, the race would be a breeze.

Wave 3 gets off to a slow start

The race itself went well for all three of us. Thibaut shot off in the first wave and posted a PB in the swim. David and I were in the third wave, and despite setting off from opposite sides of the pack, we soon found ourselves side-by-side as we approached the first buoy. There was a bit of a swell coming towards us, but it was a pretty straightforward swim for me. I came out of the water after the first lap, misread my watch, and thought I had done it in a miraculous ten minutes. Either the course had changed, or I had metamorphosed into a swimmer in the last two weeks. I exited the second lap hoping for a PB, but instead registered a rather disappointing 26:30.

David leads me out of the water by 30 seconds

For the first few kilometres of the bike, you are not supposed to use your aero-bars in three sections. However, it is impossible to know where these sections are, so I just randomly rode on the tops and on the aero-bars until we hit the main river. For the next twenty kilometres, it is a mostly straight ride up the river bank, with an almost imperceptible climb to a hundred metres above sea level. More noticeable was the slight headwind which made me happy to have chosen my TT bike this year. At about the 10-kilometre mark, I passed Misu-san and went into the red for a few minutes to draw away from him.

My TT bike seemed fine on the steep hills, especially as I had put on a 12-30 cassette. The only disadvantage was on the several short, fast, twisting descents which I had to ride cautiously. For the last few kilometres, I eased off in preparation for the run which was sure to be gruelling. I entered T2 at Tateyama Ski Resort and placed my bike in an empty rack. However, as I ran out of transition, I was really surprised to see Misu-san racking up his bike. He must have killed himself on the bike.

Going up, coming down, going around

The outward part of the run course followed that of 2015, but instead of returning to the start on the road, we simply turned around and ran along the path through the forest and back diagonally across the ski slope. On the first brutally steep climb up alongside the piste, Thibaut passed me in the opposite direction, flying back down the slope. I calculated he was about 8 or 9 minutes ahead (minus 6 minutes for his earlier start) so he was also having a great race. I staggered over the first crest, up the next climb, and then picked up a bottle of water at the turnaround. I gulped down a little and then poured the rest over my wilting body. As I ran back down the hill, I passed Misu-san coming up the other way, looking a bit rough at the edges, and then David with a grim look on his face.

Ty lending a hand

The three out-and-back laps allowed Thibaut, David, Misu-san, and I to exchange words of encouragement and share the pain a little.  On the second lap, I passed a half-full water bottle to Misu-san who really looked to be suffering. Our positions were decided; we just needed to finish the race and cool down. We also benefitted from the enthusiastic support of Meg, Ty, Miki, and Anne, especially Anne who was screaming encouragement at the start of each new lap.

Letting gravity do the work

I crossed the finish line in 2:25:49, which doesn’t really have much meaning as the bike is only 37 km, and the run 9 km. Thibaut posted a brilliant 2:23:27, which put him in 8th place overall. Misu-san came in next and David leapt across the line shortly afterwards. Overall, it was another fine race. The rain held off, and we had plenty of time to relax at the ski resort, eat salmon-trout sushi, and take in the view.

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Thibaut, Mark, Misu-san, and David (showing us how to finish in style)

Thibault with 17-year-old star, Chang Chia Hao, who posted the fastest time but was later disqualified for accepting a wheel from his team following a puncture 

That post-race feeling

The smile is for the bottle of sake I am holding

Results here

After the race, we cycled the 30 kilometres back to Toyama, taking in the views we’d missed during the race.

View up the Joganji river from Tateyama Ohashi

Spring by the Itachigawa near Toyama city centre

We even made front page of the Kita-Nihon Shimbun

 

In the evening, Miki and I went for sushi at the wonderful Sushi-Ei. We had the Toyama set menu, which for 3,000 yen features a variety of local fish. It is a serious eating place with no alcohol and no smoking. Later, we met David and Ty for Guinness, pool, and darts at the rather pleasant Pot Still bar.  A five-year-old and a bucketful of darts; what could possibly go wrong?!

Rakusuitei house and garden

Miki and I finished off the long weekend with a visit to the truly beautiful Rakusuitei house and museum just a few minutes north of the station. The house and gardens were built just after the Second World War for a wealthy merchant, using the very best wood and stone from around Japan. Each room features spectacular cuts of wood from huge zelkova, hinoki, cedar, and gum trees, and displays of the finest craftsmanship. The gardens have all the usual strolling garden features of ponds and moss and stones and trees, with each section designed to be viewed from a different part of the house. Inside, the house is adorned with graceful pottery, paintings and other Japanese crafts. It was a very relaxing end to a pretty full-on weekend.

Rakusuitei garden

 

 

Hiwasa Umigame Triathlon

I am standing once again on a beach looking out at the ocean and trying to calm my pre-race nerves. Seven hundred other triathletes sweat in their wetsuits as they wait for the klaxon. Ahead of me, a rope of buoys stretches out diagonally from the beach to the far-off promontory of Ebisu Point. Dozens and dozens of lifeguards – more than I’ve ever seen at  race – sit on rescue boards and surfboards; there are no jet skis or fishing boats in this protected harbour, but the coastguard hovers further offshore. Hiwasa Umigame triathlon is about to begin.

 Ebisu Point to the left

The klaxon sounds, and the first wave is off, quickly fanning out away from the rope. Two minutes to go, so I dip my goggles in the water and take up position on the far left. The second klaxon sounds and I wade in behind the first line of swimmers until it is deep enough to plunge in. I try to avoid the stress of the usual crazed dash out from the beach, instead holding a steady pace to keep my heart rate down and my breathing steady. With the whole bay to play with, there is little bunching, so I soon find a line straight to Ebisu Point. Someone pulls up alongside me and then matches me stroke for stroke. Soon he is hitting me on each stroke, so I pull up and immediately try to draft. As usual, I fail to find any benefit, and only manage to swallow the churning water. I let him pull away and then return to my own rhythm. As we draw further away from the beach, the water clears and soon fills with hundreds of harmless pink jellyfish. It is surprisingly cool – 25 degrees – and not too choppy. My sleeveless wetsuit feels much less restrictive than a full suit; it is definitely the way to go for summer swims.

I had decided to not push myself too hard on the swim as I knew the run would need every ounce of energy, but on the return to the beach I pick up the pace and feel like I am swimming well. As I leave the water, I glance at my watch and see 27:10 – over two minutes faster than 4 years previously. Not as fast as Osaka, but good for me in open water. I jog up the beach and then accelerate the short way towards transition. I run under the huge stone torii marking the entrance to Hachiman shrine, rip off my wetsuit, and am soon out the other end and on my bike.

The first 4 kilometres are fairly flat as I wind out through the town and along a river, passing numerous riders meandering more than the river itself. Soon the gradient steepens, and I am down on to the small chainring and up on to the tops of the bars. I had expected to steadily pass other riders, but instead I am the one getting passed by several people. This is going to be a very fast race. The road winds up beneath the welcome shade of cedars, through a long dark tunnel, and then out on to some sweeping curves which rise to the first small pass at 120 metres. For the next 15 kilometres the road climbs and falls, climbs and falls, as it twists and turns its way above the coast. One moment I am grinding up a steep climb, the next I am crouched low over the top tube as I lean into the next downhill bend. With my crash at Osaka still fresh in my mind (and my hip), I slow more than usual for the bends, and watch other riders pull away. It is hard to check for others in my age group on this technical course, but see Urayama-san struggling up a climb. I wonder if Horiyama-san is ahead, or perhaps my good swim has left him behind me.

 The start of the first climb

The last kilometre or so before the turnaround at Mugi village is a long, straight descent. On the other side of the road, youthful riders grind back up the slope, past a group of school children handing out water and the ubiquitous Aquarius. I get up to 70 km/h and feel that is more than fast enough. I change gear just before the U-turn, and head back towards the start. Before each climb, I try to change gear carefully, but I still lose my chain at the foot of one slope. Fortunately, I changed to the small ring when I still had some momentum, and I can use the front derailleur to get the chain back on. Others are not so fortunate; I pass several people wrestling frantically with dropped chains and jammed derailleurs. I try to keep on the large chainring on the shorter climbs.

On the final climb, I pass Kiyomi Niwata, triple Olympian, and still going incredibly strong at 46 years of age. We exchange a smile before I start the long descent back towards Hiwasa. I put Osaka to the back of my mind and try to catch two more riders ahead on the road. I get close as the road levels out, but decide to save my legs for the run. Half the town is out to cheer us, which isn’t a lot of people, but they seem more energetic than I feel. I unstrap my shoes nice and early, get my feet on top, and mentally prepare for transition. Once again, it all goes smoothly. Most important, there are no other bikes in my part of transition. I run out with my cap in one hand and a High5 run bottle in the other. This is the first time I have carried water so I will see how it goes.

Garmin data for bike leg

It is hot. There is no shade, little breeze, and the sun is burning down on the asphalt. I keep wondering how my body is going to behave. Will it be another meltdown like at Nagaragawa in 2015, or will I keep control of my core temperature? One runner passes me slowly, and then another more quickly. I hold on to the slower one for a while, but then let him go. My Garmin beeps, and I check the lap speed – 4:20 seems fast in this heat, so I ease off a little. I grab ice at an aid station and put it down the back of my tri-suit. I just manage to take some cold sponges too, which I squeeze over my face. I settle back in to a rhythm, my cap pulled low over my eyes to cut out the rest of the world. Niwata passes and manages to croak “nice run” before pulling steadily away. At each aid station, I grab more ice, which gradually slides down my back and out at one of my legs. I pass the 5 km mark, but there is still 200 metres to go to the turnaround. My watch beeps and shows yet another 4:20 lap. This is going to be okay.

The last 4.8 kilometres retraces most of the first half of the run, but cuts off one corner. Each aid station is a life-saver. Volunteers are ready with ice and sponges and cups of Aquarius. I see one runner tip Aquarius over his head, while another calls out for all the water they have to be poured over him. At the next aid station, they have piped up water from an irrigation channels, and a line of children is waiting with buckets. I raise my arms and get blissfully doused.

Heaven is a bucket of water

I enjoy the last half-a-kilometre, spurred on by cheers of encouragement, and sprayed with water from hosepipes. I look round with 200 metres to go and am surprised to see someone coming up fast. I search for the last meagre reserves of speed left in my legs and manage to stay ahead till the finish line. I grab more ice, some water, and sit down on the spreading bole of a giant camphor tree. And let that wonderful post-race feeling spread through my body.

Garmin data for run leg

Age group results

 The finish

The Best JTU Olympic Distance Race?

I had really enjoyed the Hiwasa OD race back in 2013 and wanted to return, but had been put off by the heat of the run and the long journey to southern Tokushima. This time I enjoyed it so much that it goes near the very top of my list of best triathlons in Japan. It is one of those rare races where each of the three legs is excellent in its own way, and where the organisation and local support is so good that it is hard to give the race anything but praise. The journey down is the one negative, as you need to fly to Tokushima, take the JAL limousine bus to Tokushima Station, and then the train down to Hiwasa. However, once you are in Hiwasa, everything goes very smoothly.

Hiwasa is famous for the sea turtles which come to its beach every year to lay eggs. For this reason, swimming is not allowed for the rest of the year, which makes the race a little special. Amazingly, two turtles came on the night of the race, so clearly we hadn’t disturbed them too much.

 Hotel Shiroi Todai overlooks the bay

The swim course is simple: a line of buoys stretches out from the beach for 750 metres to the far side of the bay. You swim out on one side of the rope, turn, and return on the other side. Every hundred metres there is a large orange buoy with the distance painted on it. The bike course is also magnificent: 20 kilometres along the coast and then back on the same road. It is hilly, technical, and has great views of the ocean. It is like Murakami in the hills. The run is basically 5 kilometres out through rice fields and back, with only the blazing sun for company.

This is an understandably popular race which sells out within hours of entries opening. All the decent accommodation also sells out immediately, and in fact I learnt that Hotel Shiroi Todai fills up on January 5^th when bookings are first taken. In 2013, I had stayed in an ancient, dingy minshuku far from the race, and this year it looked like I would be staying in a similar place, despite reserving months in advance. However, on the Wednesday before the race my wife phoned around and found cancellations at several places. I ended up with a small smoking room in the Shiroi Todai which turned out to be perfect. I have stayed in many non-smoking rooms which smell more of smoke, and few places with such a stunning view. My part of the hotel was perched over the cliff, so I slept with the window open and the sound of the sea susurrating against the cliffs below.

The view from the roof of Hotel Shiroi Todai 

I also struck it lucky with the evening meal, a rather good “Viking” spread with a range of local fish dishes. Kiriyo Suzuki invited me to her table, where I met the new Age Group officer, Saito-san. He is a really great guy who has been very helpful with all my questions about the Worlds in Rotterdam. Also on the table was the race MC, who promised to shout encouragement to me the next day, and a former elite triathlete who does the NHK commentaries.

Awa-odori at the opening ceremony 

The organisation is the best of any race I have done in Japan. The reception and briefing is done near the start area, and is completely painless. The briefing takes only 20 minutes, although I was asked to attend the rather longer opening ceremony along with the other “age group champions” from 2016. The ceremony started off with a splendid awa-odori dance performance, and finished with the usual speeches. The sheer number of brief speeches from all kinds of group leaders reflects the breadth of support for the race in the area. The next day, there was a police patrol car on the bike course (which caused me to slow down as I always assume I am doing something wrong), fire vehicles, and even a Japanese Coastguard ship in the bay.

The wise organisation extends to every element of the race. Transition is beautifully located in the shade of an avenue of trees leading up to Hachiman Shrine. The swim warm-up ends only 15 minutes from the start, and there are no speeches in the searing heat. On the water, there are no jet skis polluting the water, just countless lifeguards on boards. The bike course has safety nets on tight bends, and open culverts are boarded over. They even have volunteers at some corners warning of inspection covers. The heat of the run course is tempered by the aid stations every kilometre handing out cold sponges and bags of ice.

As with many other races in remote corners of Japan, the atmosphere is very welcoming and the local support strong. All three legs have beautiful scenery, and the finish area inside Hachiman Shrine is very special. Unfortunately, I had to leave before the post-race banquet, but I am sure it must be as good as the rest of the race. Hopefully, Hiwasa can become a template and an inspiration for other JTU races.

Hiwasa Tactics

The biggest factor with a race like Hiwasa is how to manage the heat. This is how I dealt with it:

Swim: I wore a sleeveless wetsuit which makes a huge difference in warm water. Unlike most races, we could stay in the water until 15 minutes before the race. There were several drinks tables around the start area, so I kept well hydrated.

Bike: I used my road bike with clip-on aero bars. Unless you are Tony Martin, a TT bike would be a waste of time on a course like this. I choose Continental Grand Prix II 25C tyres for handling on the bends. In terms of hydration and nutrition, I have found that I can never drink more than 750 ml of liquid on a 40 km time trial. I had one large water bottle with 3 Ultra Mineral Tablets. I didn’t touch my second bottle, so that is the last time I am going to carry two bottles up and down a hilly bike course. I also had one PowerBar ume gel which is as much as I can get down. Due to the heat, I removed my helmet visor and used sunglasses.

Run: I started off slow and just stuck to a steady pace the whole race. I took two bags of ice at every kilometre aid station, and sipped regularly from my water bottle (again with Ultra Mineral Tablets in the water).